Kabura-zushi | Traditional Foods in Japan

Kabura-zushi

ToyamaKabura-zushi
Classification (Large)
Seafood
Classification (Small)
Fermented seafood products
Main ingredients used
Turnips, yellowtail (also mackerel, salmon, or trout), carrots, yuzu, ginger, amazake koji malt
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Region of inheritance
The western area of the prefecture
Product overview (special characteristics and types)
This is a type of narezushi known as izushi or iizushi created by cutting slits into salted turnips into which fish such as yellowtail or mackerel from Toyama Bay is sandwiched before being slowly fermented with amazake koji malt. Salmon or trout may also be sandwiched instead. The taste of the turnip and fish is exquisite, making it a perfect winter delicacy or gift, and a staple for New Year feasts.
History and culture
Although kabura-zushi is a traditional dish of Ishikawa Prefecture, it has also been passed down within Toyama Prefecture, as the western area of Toyama used to be part of the Kaga Domain. There are many theories about the origin of this dish. One theory suggests it was served to the lord of the Maeda clan when he visited Fukatani Onsen to take baths for medicinal purposes, and another theory says that famers hid yellowtail, as it was a delicacy only to be enjoyed by samurai at that time, inside of turnips to enjoy it in secret. This was also a ceremonial dish to pray for abundant fishing, safe sea travel, and household well-being during the Edo period.
The Tonami Plain, which spreads from Tonami to Nanto, is famous for its turnip production. Turnip cultivation starts after the rice harvest, and enormous and sweet turnips that weigh over one kilogram are harvested in late October. The kabura-zushi made in Toyama Prefecture uses these turnips. Furthermore, the yellowtail and mackerel are caught in fixed nets within Toyama Bay.
Production method
After the turnip harvest, kabura-zushi production starts at home and at manufacturers from the end of November. In the past, families purchased koji malt from malt shops and prepared the dish at the end of the year, to be taken out and enjoyed during the New Year holiday. Although this dish was traditionally made only up to around February, advancements in processing technologies have recently made it possible to produce it all year round.
To make kabura-zushi, the turnips are first peeled thickly and sliced into round slices approximately two centimeters thick. Slits to insert the fish are cut in the center of this and salt is sprinkled. The slices are left to sit overnight before sandwiching thinly sliced, salted fish. In a barrel, the amazake koji malt, turnip with fish, carrots sliced into thin strips, yuzu, and shredded ginger are alternately layered, onto which a lid and weights are applied. The mixture is fermented for approximately two weeks until the flavors are blended to complete the dish.
Conservation and succession efforts
Although fewer families make kabura-zushi at home today, it is available from many manufacturers, and more people have been gifting the dish during the year-end and New Year holidays. Efforts to pass down this traditional delicacy to the younger generation through hands-on kabura-zushi making experiences are being carried out, and convenient kabura-zushi base kits for preparing the delicacy at home are also being sold. To allow people to enjoy kabura-zushi outside of the winter season, daikon-zushi using daikon radish is also being produced.
Furthermore, as part of the “10-million Happy Residents—the Pioneer in Well-Being, Toyama” initiative, the prefecture has also launched the “Sushi. Now that’s Toyama.” branding project, which also includes proposals of new ways to enjoy kabura-zushi.
Main consumption method
Kabura-zushi is commonly eaten as-is—simply sliced without removing any koji malt or adding any condiments or seasonings. It has long been a household staple New Year’s dish and has recently become a popular gift unique to Toyama Prefecture.
Contact
Food Cultures Office, Overseas Market Development and Food Cultures Division, Food Industry Affairs Bureau, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
Tel:+81-3-3502-5516