Moroko-zushi (Sushi with ‘Moroko’ Willow Gudgeon) ｜ Our Regional Cuisines

Aichi Prefecture

Moroko-zushi (Sushi with ‘Moroko’ Willow Gudgeon)

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Main lore areas

Owari Region
Main ingredients used

Rice, ‘Moroko’ (=Willow gudgeon, species of fish)

History/origin/related events

In the waterfront of Owari region, which has many small rivers running everywhere, there are many local dishes used river fish like crucian carp, catfish and striped mullet. ‘Moroko-zushi’, pressed-sushi (‘hako-zushi’ in Japanese) used ‘moroko’ (=willow gudgeon), is also a local food from the waterfront area. ‘Moroko’ is freshwater fish, from carp family (Cyprinidae), and it grows up to 10cm (4inches). People used to catch ‘moroko’ a lot in the waterfront. Therefore, it was already eaten in Edo Period.
‘Moroko-zushi’ is prepared by simmering 5cm (2inches) of ‘moroko’ with soy sauce and ‘mirin’ (=sweet rice wine), then placing on the vinegar rice diagonally in the rectangular wooden mold and pressing from the top. It is the characteristic of ‘hako-zushi’ in Owari region to place ingredients diagonally. It is because everyone can enjoy various ingredients equally when people ate ‘hako-zushi’ during the time rice was precious. The catch of ‘moroko’ has been decreasing these days due to water pollution, and now ‘moroko’ is known as high-class fish among river fish. ‘Haya’ (‘Hae’ minnow) is often replaced with expensive ‘moroko’.
The characteristic of ‘hako-zushi’ in Nagoya City is to place ‘moroko’ and ‘haya’ , both are small freshwater fish, after simmering them. ‘Haya’ (‘hae’) often means small crucian carp, and people like it because small crucian carp has softer bone in spring. On the other hand, bone of ‘moroko’ is soft all the year and it doesn’t hurt human’s mouth.
Opportunities and times of eating habits

It is often served at auspicious occasions like festivals or celebrations because rice and ‘moroko’ are both expensive. Also, it is served as a memorial gift at memorial services.
How to eat

Simmer ‘moroko’ with low heat with sweet-and-salty not to break fish body. Place ‘moroko’ belly-up on top of vinegar rice in the wooden mold, then cover it and press well. After taking it from the mold, cut into easy-to-eat size to serve. Traditionally wooden molds are often used, but any mold for ‘hako-zushi’ or bento boxes can be replaced. Place ‘haran’ (=cast iron plant for separation) between wooden mold and sushi to prevent rice and ingredients sticking to the mold, and to prevent germ. When you place ‘moroko’, start from the center of diagonal line. You can place thin omelette in turn. You will enjoy sweet-and salty ‘tsukudani’ (=preservative food) with slight bitterness from ‘moroko’.
Efforts for Preservation and Succession

(Outline of the traditions, the preservation society, social media use, modern approaches to commercialization)
The number of family to make ‘moroko-zushi’ has been decreasing because less families have wooden molds. However, you can still purchase one at traditional Japanese restaurants and local farmer’s markets. In addition, during ‘Owari Tsushima Tennou Matsuri’, the three major river festivals in Japan, some restaurants take reservation for ‘moroko-zushi’, and many people rush into reserving ones at that time.

RECIPE

Ingredients (4 servings)

Vinegar rice 500g
Moroko 200g
Ginger 1 piece
[A] Sake 4tbsp.
[A] Sugar 2tbsp.
[A] ‘Tamari’ thick soy sauce 4tbsp.
[A] Vinegar 1tbsp.
Mirin(=sweet rice wine) 4tbsp.

How to cook

1. Rinse ‘moroko’. Julienne-cut ginger with skin.
2. Put A into a pan to heat. Once boiled, put ‘moroko’ little by little, and add ginger. Simmer with low heat until liquid is gone.
3. Add mirin into 2 and simmer until it gets shiny pouring the cooking liquid over the moroko.
4. Wipe off water in a mold and put vinegar rice. Press it to make surface smooth.
5. Place 3 into 4. Cover it and press well. Leave it for a while.

Key points of the recipe

Use fresh ‘moroko’./Simmer ‘moroko’ with low heat because it becomes bitter once ‘moroko’ belly is broken./ Add more vinegar or ginger if the fish still has unique river fish smell. / Use bamboo strainer to simmer ‘moroko’ so that it prevents ‘moroko’ from being broken. Wait until it cools down and pick up with a strainer from the pan.

provider : Aichi's 50 Local Recipe Collection

Recipes vary depending on the region and home.

Contact

Food Cultures Office, Overseas Market Development and Food Cultures Division, Food Industry Affairs Bureau, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

Tel:+81-3-3502-5516

Moroko-zushi (Sushi with ‘Moroko’ Willow Gudgeon) ｜ Our Regional Cuisines

Aichi Prefecture