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Sunki-zuke ｜ Our Regional Cuisines

  • Nagano Prefecture

    Sunki-zuke

Sunki-zuke

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    Image Source : Hiroko Nakazawa

  • Main lore areas

    Kiso Area

  • Main ingredients used

    Red Turnip

  • History/origin/related events

    The mountainous Kiso region has a unique culinary tradition that includes a dish called "Sunki-zuke," using the leaves of red turnips. Sunki-zuke is a salt-free pickled dish made by lacto-fermenting the leaves of red turnips with the addition of sunki "seeds." In the Kiso region, it is known as a fermented food product, referred to as "sunki."
    During times when there was limited circulation and transportation, salt was considered a precious commodity in the remote and mountainous Kiso Valley, to the extent that there was a saying, "Lend rice, but never lend salt." To conserve salt, the locals developed the wisdom of making Sunki-zuke without using any salt. This pickled dish has a distinctive acidity, offering a unique taste compared to typical pickles.
    While the exact origins are uncertain, there are references to Sunki in a haiku written by a member of the Basho school, mentioning "Spring is ending with Sunki of Kiso." Additionally, approximately 150 years ago, old documents noted the presence of Sunki dishes. Thus, it is believed to have existed for at least 300 years. The red turnip used as the raw material is the "Kiso Kabu," a variety cultivated in the Kiso region. Among them are six local varieties: "Kaida kabu," "Odaki Kabu," "Mitake Kurose Kabu," "Yoshino Kabu," "Ashijima Kabu," and "Hosojima Kabu." The natural lactic acid bacteria found in the turnips are said to be particularly abundant in the stem and the base of the roots.
    In the past, fruits like small pears (zumi) and wild grapes found in the mountains were crushed and fermented to create sunki "seeds" (fermentation starters). Nowadays, people may use dried or frozen Sunki-zuke from the previous year as the sunki "seeds." Recent research indicates that Sunki-zuke contains lactobacilli comparable to yogurt, with about four suitable lactobacilli strains identified from over 300. Since the year 2003, in-depth research on Sunki lactobacilli has been conducted by a professor at Tokyo University of Agriculture, and trial tests using the four identified lactobacilli strains as sunki "seeds" have been progressing.

  • Opportunities and times of eating habits

    "Sunki-zuke" is a winter-exclusive pickled dish, typically made from the end of autumn through winter. The turnip greens become more flavorful in the cold, and as lactic acid bacteria are thought to thrive in colder temperatures, the harvest is awaited until the first frost. Several decades ago, "Sunki-zuke" was prepared around the hearth, and in the severely cold Kiso region, people used to take out frozen "Sunki-zuke" from barrels to eat.

  • How to eat

    While conventional pickles use a significant amount of salt to enhance their shelf life, "Sunki-zuke" sterilizes the surface of the leaves by briefly blanching them in water at around 60 degrees Celsius. The quickly blanched leaves are layered with sunki "seeds" in a container lined with a plastic bag, and boiled broth at around 45 degrees Celsius is added. Since lactic acid bacteria die at high temperatures, temperature control is crucial. Allowing it to sit in a warm place for a day brings out the acidity. The finished "Sunki-zuke" can be eaten as is or added to warm soba noodles. In recent times, there has been an increase in incorporating Sunki into Western cuisine, and new ways of enjoying it have emerged.

  • Efforts for Preservation and Succession

    (Outline of traditions, preservation societies, social media use, modern approaches for commercialization etc.)
    Even today, as the end of autumn approaches in the Kiso region, Sunki is pickled. It is offered at Kiso's soba restaurants and eateries, and it can be obtained at roadside stations, souvenir shops, supermarkets, and more. During the season, there are also experiences where people can try making Sunki, and various events like Sunki fairs and festivals are held.

RECIPE

Ingredients (Approximate for one batch)

  • Kabuna (Red Turnip Leaves) 3kg
  • Sunki-zuke Seeds (starter) 700g

How to cook

  • 1. Wash the kabuna thoroughly with water. Leave a bit of the stem, ensuring that the base of the stem remains, and cut the kabuna and stems into 1-2cm width pieces.

  • 2. Quickly warm them in a large pot. Think of it as blanching by quickly passing them through hot water.

  • 3. In a storage container (Styrofoam), lay a plastic bag and alternate between 2 and sunki-zuke seeds (starter).

  • 4. After finishing the layering, pour the hot water used in step 2 until the leaves are immersed. Remove the air, tightly close the plastic bag's opening.

  • 5. Cover it and leave it in a warm place for one day.

  • 6. The next morning, open and taste. If sourness is present, it's complete. Store it in a cool place for an additional 2-3 days for further fermentation until a robust sourness and umami develop, then keep it in a cool place.

provider : The Nagano Prefecture Hometown Experience Center

Recipes vary depending on the region and home.

Contact

Food Cultures Office, Overseas Market Development and Food Cultures Division, Food Industry Affairs Bureau, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

Tel:+81-3-3502-5516

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